3/20/2008

Font Day 1+2

Right now I'm here in Font, trying my hardest to get back into bouldering shape and climb a bunch of nice problems. Chillin with my crew of Hungarian friends Balint, Martin, and Akos. Word! The weather has been suprisingly good for the past two days so I'm pretty satisfied.

Day one was pretty cool. I did a few classic 7A and 7B boulders, technical blocs on really bad slopers and hard topouts. I climbed two classic 7C boulders, an arete and Eclipse. Both felt really hard, pure power boulders. I tried an 8A called the Maxx but there was a really sketchy heelhook on it that hurt my foot so I stopped trying.

Day two went a bit better. I warmed up and tried La Balance, 8A, but it felt really hard so I left it alone and tried a 7C called Aerodynamite. I climbed it second try, which was suprising, so my and Balint started trying a project to the left of it. It involves grabbing a really bad left hand crimp, and the pocket starting hold of Aerodynamite with the right hand, then jumping to a pinch and doing a huge move with the left into a good crack. We worked it for like an hour and it felt really hard. Then, all of the sudden Balint climbed it, so I got syked again and started working it some more. After like 100 tries of almost getting the crack, at the end of the day I finally stuck it and topped it out. Super classic new boulder, and probably around 7C+/8A.

So more to come, today we're resting but tomorrow, if it doesnt rain, were gonna try Fata Morgana and Stan I Helvete.