Comp Syke?

So, I havent updated in a while, but not much has been going on since we left Rodellar. In my last entry I wrote that I competed in a bouldering comp in Rodellar and qualified for the finals. Well the finals turned out pretty well and I completed 5 of the 7 problems, and ended up 2nd behind Edu Marin, who climbed 6 boulders. In reality I feel like I could have done all 7, since I got pretty close to the 2 I didnt do, but thats how bouldering comps go.. its really hard to climb your 100% when you only have 5 minutes for each boulder. Anyway, I was really syked with my result and syked to be in good bouldering shape after only climbing routes the previous month. After the comp, we spent 3 days in the gym training for the lllead World Cup in Chamonix, 2 days in a boulder gym in Huesca and one day in a really nice lead gym in Oloron, France. I felt in pretty good shape, seeing as I hadnt been training at all before, so I figured I would just try to do my best and see how the comp goes. The qualifiers in the World Cup was a flash format where everyone tried the same two routes, and 26 people would advance to the semi finals. The first route wasnt too bad and I topped it, along with lots of other people, so it really came down to the 2nd to see who makes semis. The second route was a lot longer and pumpier on small, slopey holds, which really isnt my style, especially now that I had only been climbing in Rodellar. I got really pumped on the bottom and fought hard, but just couldnt hold on after turning the roof and fell about 8 moves from the end. I ended up 28th, just not making semis, which isnt a bad result at all considering the strong field and my lack of comp shape. After the comp I realized that if I want to do well in comps, I cant just show up unprepared and hope to do well.. I really have to dedicate my time and train a lot for them in order to do my best. Anyways, the finals was really motivating to watch and Patxi Usobiaga ended up dominating the finals, falling on the last move of the route, 6 moves above Sachi Anma who got 2nd. Patxi is definately in his best shape right now and really a step above the others!

As for now, Im not sure what my plans are but definately more gym training and preperation for the comps to come. I may head back to Rodellar in the next 2 weeks if I can, but otherwise I may just head to Innsbruck, Austria,to hang out and train with my good friends. EIther way, very syked to get in prime shape and step it up in August!