Last Days in Rodellar..

A couple days ago my friends Magnus and Sasha arrived here in Rodellar, and with new climbers always comes new syke. Magnus was really syked to try Inconformistas, 9a, my project from last time, so I gladly showed him the beta and was very curious to see how he would do. Soon enough, two days later, Magnus climbed the route, and watching him really got me syked to step it up and try to finish it up myself. After his send I made my best link yet, grabbing the crux hold but not in the right spot, and consequently I was unable to move off of it. Although I didnt do it, I felt a lot more solid on the move then the days before and realized that the route was actually possible in the next few tries, as long as I stay syked and try really hard on the intimidating, low-percentage crux move. I figured I would rest for the remainder of the day, and try the route again fresh the next day. When I woke up the next day, I felt really strong and light.. and warming up on my usual 7c+ warmup, I felt more solid then before. On my first try I passed the first crux easily, feeling solid going into the last bouldery section. I got my feet set up and got ready to go for the falling-stab move to the crux slot, but when I did the move I suprised myself by nearly doing it static, for the first time ever. I grabbed the hold perfectly and continued climbing, all the way to the anchors!!

The move..

I was completely surprised as I reached the top, as the crux had felt so much easier then before. That day was a very calm one at the wall, almost no people except Magnus and Sasha, and I was completely relaxed climbing on the route. Perhaps this, or the bottles of wine the night beofre, was the key to sending, but either way I was very happy! This route mark a big step for me in climbing, my first route in the 9th degree, something I had been trying to achieve since last winter. That night we all celebrated, since Sasha also climbed her first 5.14a that day (Botanics, a long endurance 8b+ on the same wall), also a big step for her climbing! Needless to say syke was higher then ever that day, and continued throughout the rest of the week.

Two days later, we decided to head up to the Gran Boveda, another popular wall in Rodellar, to try some onsights. We all warmed up on a nice slightly overhanging 8a, then me and Magnus decided to try Alter Ego, 8b. Magnus went first and took it to the top, no falls, onsight. Since I couldnt let Magnus outclimb me, I would have to succeed too. I also onsighted the route, after a big fight, my first 8b onsight! After I felt really tired and decided to rest, but Magnus tied in and decided to go for an onsight try on Geminis, 8b+/8c, a route I climbed on my first trip to Rodellar almost two years ago. After pulling through both cruxes and reaching the top, Magnus was just about to clip the anchor when his foot popped and he fell, two inches from victory!!!! No one had ever onsighted Geminis before and Magnus made the best try yet, but unfortunately messed up, as close as physically possible to the end. Oh well buddy, next time!!

So today we all rest, and tomorrow go climb in a gym to train for the World Cup in Barcelona this weekend. After Barcelona I think I will head to Innsbruck, Austria to train for the upcoming comps, and also to do some climbing around there in Zillertal and Neiderthai. More to come this weekend from the World Cup!