The past two days I have been trying Ultimate Sacrifice 8c+ on the Deverse wall. This climb is an extension to an 8c I climbed last year and it involves around 10 more hard moves after the anchor. The rest after the first part is really awkward on an undercling pinch and a slopey gaston, so for me the key is being able to recover for the top moves. Yesterday I fell on the last hard move (the crux), a deadpoint from a slopey crimp into a left hand vertical slot. Hopegully only a few more tries and it will go!
Its pretty cool to see how much I have progressed since last summer. The 8c first part took a lot of effort and I remember I was so pumped at the anchor that there was no way I could have kept going. Spending a year in Europe and training mainly resistance has definitely been paying off.
In other news, the Spanish crew has left so I don't know what they ended up climbing. Magnus has been trying Kinematix for the past few days but he has been having trouble on the bottom part. I'm pretty sure he will do it next go though and then start making good links.
