8/09/2008

Gorges du Loup Update

Ultimate Sacrifice (8c+)



The past week has been a good one here in Southern France. I finished up my project Ultimate Sacrifice 8c+, after falling three times in the upper crux. It was pretty suprising to do it so fast but once you have the moves dialed its just a question of doing a few hard moves after an 8c start. A lot of my friends showed up this week as well, including the Canadian crew Sean, JJ, and Marshall. Sean climbed New Power Sacrifice 8c and also flashed SIKA 2 and New Power Generation, both 8b. JJ also flashed New Power Generation, and Marshall climbed Qussai 8a+.

After Ultimate Sacrifice I also climbed Hot Chili X 8c, a direct and harder exit to the classic Hot Chili Beans. The route is nice but it has one rule that you are not allowed to rest on one of the tufas that you would normally rest on in Hot Chili Beans. I didnt end up resting there but in general I think this is pretty stupid.. you should be allowed to use every hold on the rock. Even so I found it pretty soft for 8c.

Other then that I am still waiting for Abysse and Triptik Tonic to dry before trying them.