10/02/2008

WC Puurs

The third WC this year was Puurs. I went into the competition with the mindset that all I want to do is not mess up, then Ill be happy. I didnt care about the result or anything as long as I climbed well. The qualifiers route was quite easy, maybe 8a+, and 11 people topped. I fell on the last move where I didnt notice an obvious heelhook, but no worries cause I was in 12th place going into the semis. Again, the pattern lives on.. good in qualis, bad in semis!! Its really annoying and never fails. In the semis I wasnt nervous at all and climbed quite well until I fell. As I approached a big slap move, I didnt bring my foot up and tried to keep it low, and missed the hold and fell.. It was quite suprising as I wasnt really tired and seemed to have climbed pretty composed until then. Oh well, another bad result.. 22th.

Today, a week after the comp, I tried the semis route again just to prove my theory. True, a route is much easier 2nd go, but still.. I tried the semis again and on my first try fell two moves from the finish hold, the same spot as Sean and Valeriy. If I had gotten there in the comp it would have put me in 8th place, just enough for finals....

I also went again in the qualifier and topped it pretty easily... I guess this mental block I have is not uncommon, but I just dont know what I can do to change it. Any advice?? Maybe the lack of a coach is the answer, but many other people dont have coaches like Sean Mccoll and he never seems to have problems with this type of stuff