Interview with Felipe "Gomez" Camargo from Brazil!

Having grown up in the US and traveled all around Europe, Ive had the chance to meet lots of strong motivating climbers. Many of these climbers are unknown to us here in the US, although their accomplishments would easily rank them high up in the American climbing scene. What’s more amazing is that most of them dont have CATS or The Spot to train in.. their accomplishments are products of pure motivation and syke, often having to train in small boulder rooms with old, painful climbing holds, no climbing partners, routesetters, or coaches. Having seen the gyms of Edu Marin and Ramon Julian, two of the strongest climbers in the world from Spain, I can easil say that most people would never be able to accomplish anything near what they have done over the past few years.

One of these crazy people is my good friend Felipe "Gomez" Camargo from Brazil. Brazil is far from ideal for a climbing oriented place, but the small group of motivated climbers makes sure to stay on top of things. Felipe has always been inspired by the professional climbing scene in Europe and last year had the chance to go to Europe for the summer to climb on rocks and compete in World Cups. He ended up climbing numerous 8c (5.14b) routes, onsighting 8a+ (5.13c), and 22nd place in the adult lead world cup, as well as finals in the european youth cup. He has bouldered numerous V11 and V12 boulder problems as well! All in all, Felipe is one of the most determined and syked individuals I have ever seen, and after traveling together last year and training together we ended up becoming very good friends. Here I have made a a short interview with him over the internet, check him out!

First off, introduce yourself mayyn!

Well, im Felipe Camargo, 17 years old and im Brazilian!!! Ive been climbing "A muerte" since 2001!

1.) We here in America dont really know anything about Brazil, other then the Carnaval and lots of hot girls. Whats Brazil like? How is the climbing, the gyms, the night life, etc.

Brazil is an amazing country to come for tourism, full of beauty and nature, and as everybody knows, lot of girls and parties (but i always heard that its better in the US...lots of blonde girls ahaha)!! Climbing in Brazil is still really small, but its growing and not at the same time, is really growing on the Rock part, but not really at the comps!! but well, with time thats gonna change!!! First 8cs (5.14b's) are being sent just now....so we still have so much to progress and develop!

Felipe making the first ascent of "Cabra Da Peste", 8c (5.14b) in Brazil

2.) Describe an average day in the life of Felipe Camargo.

This year, since i finished school last year, life has been about climbing only!!! !! So an average day - Wake up arround 8 o clock, and go to the climbing gym for my first trainning session...from 9 till 12! than back home, rest and chill until the afternoon! around 6 go back to the gym, and train untill 10 o clock! After, go back home....during the week i usually just chill and rest....and during weekends go out with friends and girls!

3.) You've widely known as Felipe the Papichulo or the Brazilian Cassanova over in Europe. How did you get that nickname? Will you live up to your reputation this year?

Aight gabor will have a pay back time!!ahha! Well, since im not in a serious relationship, im always syked to go around and meet new girls, and Europe is an amazing place for doing that! And also in brazil people are always syked to party and everything, so i think its kinda of the brazilian culture!!! I think this year im gonna try and be more mellow....try to get back my reputation! Ill try to be more serious man! ahahah (aight...just kidding.. im not gonna be quiet)!!!!

4.) Do you prefer boulders or routes? What are your goals for 2009, and in general.

I like both, but im always more syked on routes!!! My goals for this year, is first off all progress on rock.....try to do my first 8c+, and why not a 9a! And 8b onsight!! In comps, i just want to climb well and climb as hard as i can. If that works out, i think i can be in the top 5 at the world youth, and do really well at the word cups!!! this year no pressure...just climb as hard as i can and have fun with my hommies! For my career i would like to always be travelling arround the world....going to europe and the US every year to compete and climb on rocks!!! And always progress...9a+s and finals in adult comps are big goals!!

5.) For every word I say, write the first thing that comes to mind.

France -gorges du loup
the US - blonde girls
world cups - finals
training - always a muerte!
9a - coming soon!
tufas - i hate..
slabs - i hate even more!
traveling - my passion
sponsors - i want some!
progression - im on it
the best climber in the world - patxi usobiaga
parties- always syked!

6.) Tell us about your training - how much do you train? how often? you have no trainer.. how do you know what to do?

Well, i think thats my strongest aspect in climbing...I've always been so focused on training!!! And Ive always stayed syked...i live in a city where the closest rock is 7 hours away....and on top of that we only have one small gym in my city to climb in!!! Im not as lucky as the Austrians and others, so I dont really have a choice...if I want to achieve my goals, its either train hard or train hard! I train usually 5 days per week, and the last two years almost 6 hours per day!!! I've learned a lot about hard training by reading books, searching on the internet, and talking with other climbers...always going around and searching!

7.) what was it like to travel in europe last year? Tell us your top 3 most memorable moments.

Traveling in Europe was amazing....a great experience and I grew up so much!!! Its hard to choose one specific moment....there are so many...first off traveling around with Patxi Usobiaga, who has always been my "idol" and is now a really good friend! After that, climbing my first 8c, The Hulk in Rodellar! Than the comps (world cups, youth comps, etc) - so much frustration and then stepping it up in the end! Then, our epic climbing trip together... epics in Slovenia.....crazy nights stranded under the giant cave in santa linya....our syke nights at Dani Andrada's small gym...Klu Bar in slovenia....Big Bar in Llerida... room 325 (ahahha)....so many good memories!!

8.) What do you think is better for becoming a strong climber- the American, free-flow approach or the Euro mega-training mentality?

This really depends on what u have for training! if you are lucky to have huge gyms....training less, your training will be as good as the spanish crazy style in plafons (small boulder-rooms with lots of holds, kind of like CATS..)!!! Or if u can climb everyday on lots of hard routes on rock, maybe u dont have to train as hard as others...But in a big plan...the europe mentality for sure!!!

Another first ascent in Brazil - A Dor É O Poder, 8c (5.14b)

9.) In a few weeks we will embark to Europe, on a crazy climbing adventure. What are your predictions? Whats gonna go down bub??

Yeah!!!!! we are gonna be gypsies arround europe again!!!!travelling arround....without planning shit....and just let it be...get fucked sometimes for sure!!!but also have a lot off fun...and climb a muerte!!!!
Do hard sends on rock!!!! trainning really hard in Innsbruck....do well in the world cups and youth words....and off course also party a lot!!!! Really syked!!!is finally arriving!!!

10.) when u coming to the US mayyn? show us how to party like the brazilians?

I dunno man!!!! i really want to!!! see how the US is like!!! and to climb in hueco...bishop....i hope that next year i can do it!!!!

11.) Try to figure out what these American rap phrases mean!

chunk up tha deuce - "i dunno.. is it like, drink up the juice??"
wood grain grippin - "ahh, omg.. i have no idea.. like working hard?"