Preparing for the Summer

So lately the weather here in Boulder has been terrible, having rained and snowed constantly for the past week. Since rock climbing has been out of question, I figured it was time to step it up in the gym and start taking training to new levels.

Most of the sessions are pretty power oriented, mainly bouldering and circuit training, along with lots of power workouts. An average day for me at CATS consists of warming up, then making around 10-15 hard (usually between 7C and 8A+) boulders and trying to climb them all in as few tries as possible. After this I usually take a short break and then repeat the problems I had climbed in previous sessions, usually not the hardest ones but its still pretty challenging to try and repeat them all. This strategy works well for tracking improvement.. if the problems feel easier then before, especially being tired from the first problems, improvement is in effect. So after these boulders I usually take another short break then start the circuit training.

Right now in CATS I have around 10-15 circuits 8a and harder: one 9a?, one or two 8c+'s, one 8c, 3 8b+'s, and around 6 in the 8a-8b range. The first thing I do is try the hardest circuits. I try to make big links on them and then climb them from the bottom to try to get as far as possible, making about 2-3 redpoint attempts on each. After this I repeat most of the easier ones in the 8a to 8b+ range, trying to climb each perfectly and in control. Sometimes with others I do the "stick training", which is pretty much when someone else starts pointing to holds with a stick and I have to climb their sequence until I get so pumped I cant climb anymore. This training is really effective, however it requires that the person pointing with the stick makes good circuits, with powerful consistent moves and appropriate rests. Finally, after the circuit training I take a big rest then do power training to finish off the session. This usually consists of weighted pull-ups, leg lifts, ab-wheel, one arm pullups and one arm lowers, campusing, dead hangs, and lock offs.

So why all this training? Ive been really syked lately to be in my best shape for the summer, having multiple goals. My main goal is to climb harder on rock then ever before, hopefully 9a route and 8b or 8b+ onsight. I've never really been good at onsighting, so Im hoping to step it up and break through the mental barriers holding me back. The two main routes Im syked to try this summer are Abysse and Kinematix, both 9a in Gorges du Loup. Im also very syked to finish up Triptik Tonic 8c+, Asai 8c, and Totalite 8c+.

My other goal for the summer is to climb well in the three lead world cups I'll be able to compete in.. Im not really sure what this means, maybe top 15, maybe top 8, I don't really know. The main goal is to climb as well as I can and whatever place this gets me I'll be syked.

So with these goals in mind Ill continue the training for the next 3 weeks before my flight to Europe. With the crew in effect- Jon, Scott, Tieri, and Ryan, syke is always high.