5/27/2009

Back in España!

So the past 2 weeks have been pretty hectic, including 3 international flights, a 23 hour drive from Budapest to Lleida, and catching a heinous flu along the way and not being able to climb the past couple of days.. but no worries, its all good during summertime in Europe! I arrived in Belgium on the 10th of May and stayed for 4 days to hang out with my parents, and train in the gym a bit to get back some route endurance. 2 days later my friends Seth and Felipe arrived, and after 2 more gym sessions we flew to Hungary to buy a car for the trip.

I ended up buying a 1997 Silver Honda Civic, in really good condition, the perfect car for traveling throughout Europe! We hung out in Hungary for 3 more days then drove to Innsbruck, Austria and climbed one day in Tivoli, then continued the drive to Spain. We arrived the next day, pretty tired but really syked to have finally made it to our final destination.

Dani Andrada and Chris Sharma had found a really nice cave earlier this year called Cueva de Juncosa, and over the past weeks established a bunch of hard routes in it, inclusing a 45 move traverse called Las Quatros Estaciones.


Las 4 Estaciones..

Felipe and Magnus climbed there a couple weeks ago and said it was really good, so we decided to go and check it out. It turned out to be really amazing and we got really syked on the traverse, which is a consistant power endurance climb with goods rests, but lots of dynamic, powerful moves with bad footholds. Although I have been sick for the past couple weeks and havent really been able to climb, the past 3 days have been a lot better and I got really syked on Las Quatro Estaciones. 2 days ago I figured out the different sections and suprised myself on my last try by making it all the way into the last crux, 4 moves from the end. I have linked all the differnent sections now and just need one good go to finish it up, so hopefully I will get it done in the next couple of days! Felipe had a really amazing day two days ago when he sent the traverse and another short 8c+ in the cave, both in the same day.. muy bien bixxo! Hopefully now I can get over the flu and also step it up.. As for the grade, since its a 45 move traverse it doesnt really deserve a boulder grade in my opinion, so we agreed on 8c+ route or 8B traverse, whatever that means. Dani and Chris Sharma think its more like 8B+/8C traverse or 8c+/9a route, but we discovered different beta and better rest positions and think its a little esier then what they suggested.. but who knows.. Its really hard to grade a traverse but regardless its a really amazing and challenging rock climb. In the next couple of days we are thinking of making a move to Rodellar to try Los Boracchos and Les Inconformistas, 8c+ and 9a, and then after go to Austria to start training for the World Cup in Chamonix.. Always Syked!!