A few days ago I headed to Clear Creek Canyon, a really nice sport climbing/bouldering area 30 minutes from Boulder, to try a 5.14b I had been syked on for a while. The route is called Prime Time to Shine, and it is a linkup that links the crux of Prime Evil (5.14a) into the crux of Shine, another 5.14a. I had been on Shine last year but never really understood the crux, until this time when I went up with Paul Robinson and found really nice beta that worked well for me. On my first try I nearly flashed the crux of Prime Evil, and then fell there again on my second go. It was already getting dark so I figured I would wait and come back another day to finish it up.
Yesterday I went back up there with my friends Sticcs, Scott, and Cookie, and on my first try got through the crux of Shine and sent the route for its 5th ascent! In total it took me three tries and is definitely one of the best routes I have done in the US. I may head back there this weekend to get some footage, or next week if the weather's better.
