Today it rained.....again. I knew I wouldnt be able climb but I went anyway to check out a new crag called Trou Magritte, so next time I wont have to waste time trying to find it. Trou Magritte is a small cave with a bunch of short, overhanging routes in the 6c-8b+ range. Although a bit chipped, the lines looked fun so Im sure I'll be back to climb when it dries out.
After watching King Lines and seeing the routes in Santa Linya, Ive been really inspired to create a King Line of my own. One line at Trou Magritte really caught my attention. Since its really hard to explain, I drew this picture to explain my line:
Basically, it would link the start of an 8a into a hard boulder (maybe V9? im not sure, i havent tried it yet, just looked at it). Then after that, you would continue linking out left into the crux of an 8b, after which you get a really nice rest.
This is where Im not sure if it will go or not. Instead of continuing up on good holds, I want the route to keep going left on a series of really bad slopers and small crimps, into the finish of another 8a+. I would have to add a bolt for the link up section and Im not sure yet how hard it is, or if it even goes at all. I looked at it and from what I saw, it could be anywhere between V8-V11, but you never know until you try, so I cant say anything for sure. Then, after this link, another good rest leads to a cool slab sequence to teh anchors.
Overall, if the route ends up being possible, Im sure it will be no easier then 8c+ and very proud at that. It links the whole overhanging part of the crag, and is maybe 35 meters long. Next week I'll definately try it if the weather gets better and hopefully it will be possible!! I'm really hoping!
I also found a pretty cool boulder problem not far from there, not an amazing looking line but it has nice moves and cool holds. It is six moves long and will probably be somewhere between V10 and V12. The crux is the fourth move and involves doing a big move out right to a very small, sharp two finger knob sidepull, then pasting your feet high and jumping a a good pad-and a half edge. When I try it Ill take some pics to show you what it looks like.
And at last, theres one more line that Ive been thinking about trying to link. In my previous posts, I mentioned a route called Shingen, a classic 8b+ technical climb in Freyr. I have beeen considering a line that starts up Shingen then at the crux, instead of going to a good pocket, continuing right to another hard boulder, into a really technical traverse, and finishing up a 7c+. This line also looks cool and would probably be an 8c or so, again Im not sure since I havent tried it. Perhaps Ill ask some others and see what they think, then give it a shot if the moves are cool.
All in all though, Im pretty syked that I found these new lines and am very excited to try them, especially my King Line at Trou Magritte. More updates on how thats going will be posted soon...
