7/17/2008

And so it begins..

Today I finished up my first big project in Nice, "Zobble" 8c+ in the Jurassic Park. I needed around 5 tries this trip and fell three times from the final crux before sending. In total it took around 5 days of work which is the longest I have ever tried a route. My hardest so far, but the future looks promising..

So about the climb- Zobble is a short, steep 30 move resistance route. It starts with a 10 move 7C+ boulder which leads to a decent rest. After this rest comes another bouldery section, maybe 7B+ or 7C, which involves a really cool sequence of heelhooks, toehooks, dropknees, etc. After this there are two easier moves and finally one last hard stab move to a slopey pocket. This move is really low percentage and only works if you hit the pocket just right. After this, there are 10 more easier moves to the top. Overall the climbing is quality and much more interesting then a lot of the other routes here.


So next up is the Deverse Wall. I have so many projects there that it will easily keep me occupied for the rest of my trip - Asai, Umtimate Sacrifice, Abysse, Hot Chili X, Total Eclatch, Honk, Sika2, Les Maux de La Fin, Quenelle Trophy, Triptip Tonic, etc etc. There is no way I'll get all these done but hopefully some will go by mid August, before I take off to Sydney for the Youth World Championships.