A few days ago I climbed Quenelle Trophy, 8c, on the Deverse Wall. I tried this route last year and it felt super hard, but this year it took only three tries to reach the top. Since it went so fast I decided to give the extension a try, an 8c+ that climbs another 20 meters to the top of the cliff. After working the moves out I didn't think it would take too long, but since I am so sketch on face climbing I ended up fumbling the crux (which is at the last bolt, 35 meters up) four times before finally sending it. The route turned out to be the biggest mental challenge so far, but still didn't really feel like 8c+ so I am calling it 8c/8c+ or just a hard 8c.
Having done that, I have now officially run out of dry routes to try on the Deverse wall. So time to start working the wet Triptik Tonik, Abysse, or Total Eclatch (not sure yet which one). Will be interesting.
In other news, Sean has climbed some more hard routes including 7 PM Show and Hot Chili X, both 8c, as well as flashed Hot Chili Beans 8b+. JJ had a good last day by climbing Hot Chili Beans as well as Oudai, 8b/8b+.
And last but not least, my friend Jerome de Boeck from Belgium has has an amazing few days by climbing Ultimate Sacrifice, Hot Chili X, and New Power Sacrifice. He found some new beta at the crux of Ultimate that make it a lot less powerful (maybe just a hard 8c), so maybe that will turn out to be standard from now on? Only time will tell. Good work Jerome!
