6/06/2009

More from Spain

The past 2 weeks have been really nice here in Spain, good weather and good times.. We climbed a couple more days in the Juncosa cave near Margalef, and after a mini epic I finished my project, the 45 move traverse Las 4 Estaciones (The 4 Stations). Grading it is pretty hard, but after realizing how pumpy the end actually is on link I think Dani´s suggestion of 8c+/9a route or 8B+ traverse is definately appropriate.. I think its more the former, but its really up to the repeaters to decide. Either way the traverse was really hard for me and I was syked to get it done before the weather got too hot. The day after, we decided to make a move to Rodellar, so yesterday was our first day climbing here. I tried two amazing routes, The Hulk Extension, 8c+ and Las Inconformistas, 9a or 9a+? put up by Eric Lopez. The Hulk extension feels very doable in the next few days as long as it doesnt get wet (Its been raining quite a lot the past 2 days), so hopefully we will have suerte! Me and Felipe also figured out the moves on Las Inconformistas, which is a harder variation of Los Boracchos del Mascun. They both start the same and do the first crimpy crux, and at the jug Las Inconformistas branches off left and does another 8A? boulder with crazy spin around moves in a negative roof. This route also feels doable, but will definately be a challenge to link. It definately feels more 9a then 9a+ as suggested by Erik, but either way a very difficult and impressive roof climb. So the next 2 weeks I will probably work this and Hulk Extension, and then go to Innsbruck to train for the lead World Cup in Chamonix. So hopefully the weather will stay good and we will be able to climb a lot before having to train for the comps.. suerte!